“I felt a stab of adrenalin, a sudden feeling of excitement, when I finally got a glimpse of the ocean, knowing the next couple of days were going to be an unforgettable whirlwind of adventures.” Eva Davidova explored a small coastal village in Morocco, embracing the wildlife, hospitality and foreign flavor food that this magic place, on the edge of the desert, has to offer.
Text and analoge images by Eva Davidova
www.instagram.com/evvvd
I recently embarked on a new adventure to a small, coastal village in Morocco called Taghazout. It’s a quaint fishing village north of Agadir. This small, laidback community, once famous for calamari and hippies, is now considered to be Morocco’s top surfing destination. It wasn’t long before word about the friendly locals, good surf, and authentic vibes got around.
Taking a three-hour bus from the Medina of Marrakesh through the Atlas Mountains to Agadir was a journey in itself. The green hills and eye-catching scenery that surrounded us were incredibly enchanting. Shephards — very young boys, very old men — dressed in hooded djellabas walked their sheeps and goats. Forming the stunning backdrop, lush green foothills and the ever-present Atlas Mountains puncture the sky. This has long captured the imagination of cinematographers, being used to film ‘Gladiator,’ ‘Jesus of Nazareth’ and ‘Lawrence of Arabia.’ The numerous olive tree’s, old ruins and the beauty of the Atlas Mountains left me with tremendous anticipation, as I awaited the brilliant splash of blue and white from the ocean slowly approaching. I felt a stab of adrenalin, a sudden feeling of excitement, when I finally got a glimpse of the ocean, knowing the next couple of days were going to be an unforgettable whirlwind of adventures.
By the time we left it felt like we had tasted every rich and brilliant ingredient of this coastal town to its full extent; surfing, drinking traditional Moroccan mint tea, listening to relaxed tunes on the roof of the Ocean Surf House while exchanging travel stories with locals and other free-spirited travelers, while simultaneously overlooking the waves crashing at Anchor Point.
The enchanting stretch of azure Atlantic, sandy beaches and rugged cliffs are a sanctuary for wildlife, birds and surfers alike. Taghazout and it’s surrounding villages are just some of the unique treasures that call attention to the wilderness, with a combination of friendly locals and good vibes. With its sea-side restaurants, cafes, unspoiled sands and relaxed pace of life, this Moroccan coastal town is a breath of fresh air that left me desiring more.
Today, Taghazout draws surfers and independent travelers with open minds. Surf breaks such as Hash Point, Panorama, Anchor Point, La Source, Killer Point and Mysteries surround the village. Nowadays, there are primarily French and Spanish surfers mingling with the native Moroccans and Berbers in what still feels like a frontier town on the edge of the desert.
With an amazing apartment that overlooked Anchor Point and the small village of Taghazout, I woke up every morning to the waves crashing and the sun rising. I would wander through the labyrinthine corridors of some of the world’s oldest cities with a coffee in one hand and a film camera in the other. We had breakfast at a small surf café called West Coast, who’s wifi password was ironically ‘California.’ The waiter was a kindhearted Moroccan man that prepared one of the best breakfasts we had during our stay. The waiter filled our table with toasted ‘baghrir,’ which is a Moroccan delicacy: a cross between a pancake and a crumpet. As soon as I took my first bite I was immediately consumed with a variation of foreign flavor. The orange juice and the coffee were also amazing and I knew that this was just the beginning of delicious Moroccan treats. You definitely can’t leave without trying a traditional ‘tagine’, a stew cooked in a large clay pot.
If I close my eyes and think back to our trip I can smell orange blossom and rose, cumin and mint. I can taste almonds and dates and lamb. I can see dishes in saffron yellow, henna orange and cinnamon brown, all presented in brightly colored ceramics. I was swept away by the colors, aromas and vibrations of such a beautiful country.
The guys from the surf house took us to the Panorama beach where we played soccer with the locals and purchased salted caramel nuts from an older man who was selling them on his camel. We shared stories and experiences about life, the kind that make you question everything you thought to be true. Interestingly, camels are not only a source of transportation but also carry the boards.
Abdu, a friend from the surf house, invited us to a rooftop on a house that overlooked incredible coastal beaches. We had traditional Moroccan food while exchanging travel stories with locals and other travelers that just got back from a trip to Paradise Valley, the ‘juristic park’ of Morocco. Phil was explaining how he spent weeks collecting bamboo so he could build himself a house in Paradise Valley where he was content on spending the rest of his life. There was a kind of simplicity in his thinking that many people fall short of. Abdu told us stories from his life and brought up two small puppies, which he named after his favorite surfer that visited a couple years back, Kelly Slater. The white puppy was named Kelly and the other one Slater. Abdu talked about his travel stories ranging from Bali to Sri Lanka to how he started this family hostel. It was amazing to see how much the guys loved their jobs, it was apparent that they worked without the fear that money produces. They enjoyed bonding with travelers from around the world, which come to Taghazout to seek the beauty and constant source of adventure in which Morocco provides. They loved meeting new people and welcomed us with positivity and a friendly atmosphere.
I said goodbye to Taghazout with the anticipation of reuniting with my new friends on some of the most beautiful beaches in the world. If you come to this beautiful village on the edge of the desert with a good vibe and respectful attitude, it will be a place that you will never forget.
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